Cantilever/V-Brake Bosses

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10412.0321.eml

From: "goodrichbikes"

Subject: Re: Frame Canti Boss Location - Std Dimensions Available?

Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 13:29:51 -0600

700C(622) = 283mm

26"(559) = 253.5mm

650B(584) = 265mm

A post center to post center measurement of 80mm works best for most canti & v brakes.

Curt Goodrich

Minneapolis, MN

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10001.0415.eml

Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 01:00:11 -0500 (EST)

From: Jeff DelPapa

Subject: Frame measurements question

The last time I asked about canti spacing, the number I got was 80mm center to center, apparently from the literature of the big S. I expect it should depend on the rim width, but they didn't mention a correction. As to distance from axle, I was told 25mm less than the bead seat diameter, which worked fine for the canti's I used. (happened to be scott self energizing -- pre linear pull style.)

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0373.eml

Subject: Re: Frame Brake Boss Location

From: "Jon_norstog AKA \"Thursday\""

Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:03:56 -0600

I'm working from the 1999 Shimano book. The spacing between canti posts depends a little on rim width. basically it's 77-85 mm, but on a road bike you could probably go down to 75 and be fine..

I use 80 for mountain bikes and 85 for BMXers and bikes that are gonna run V-brakes and wide rims.

Different V-brakes will have different tire clearances. This may not be an issue with cantis.

Good luck

jn

"Thursday"

Down-Tube Shifter Bosses

Top-Tube Brake Cable Stops/Bosses

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0512.eml

From: "Andrew R Stewart"

Subject: Re: Frame TT brake cable BO location - since we're talkin' BO's And

Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 20:53:48 -0400

Roman- As I like to be able to run a TT pump I make sure that the stop JUST clears the pump. Trying for as little of the stop hanging out past the side of the TT. I like the cast bullet shaped type. The distance from the HT center is about 10cm. My frames are small and I hate cable loops that are really tight so I give both the brake and gear cables a bit of room for the casing to loop away from the bars. ( I run Ergo). Another difference I have is that I run my brakes righty/front lefty/rear so the TT forward TT stop is on the TT's right side... the rear stop is on the left side... yes the cable just grazes the underside of the TT. (Oh my kingdom for five Campy rear brakes made in a mirror image, the cable on the other side). Again on the rear stop I place it 10 cm from the ST center. Look at a lot of production alu or carbon frames and on the smaller sizes the rear stop is so close to the ST that the cable gets a tight loop, enough to cause friction issues.

Water/H2O Bottle Cage Bosses

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0512.eml

From: "Andrew R Stewart"

Subject: Re: Frame TT brake cable BO location - since we're talkin' BO's And

Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 20:53:48 -0400

As to water bottle bosses. The bottles overlap. The ST one is as low as possible, straddling the ft der clamp. The DT set so it clears the ST bottle by a small bit. About 10cm for the ST and 18.5 for the DT, lower boss to the BB shell outside surface (add 2cm for BB center).Again small frames and also 46-50 tooth large rings. An interesting story here. Our Co-Motion tandem also has a set of stoker ST water bottle bosses straddling the der clamp. they didn't know of our 48 tooth large ring and the der clamp lined up exactly on the lower boss! So I used a clamp diameter 1/8" larger and a shim (cut down to clear the boss) and the der mounted right over the boss. Can't attach a bottle on that tube without some kind of clamping but so far we've not needed it. Andy S.

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0456.eml

From: "OMAR KHIEL"

Subject: Re: Frame H20 boss placement question

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:57:01 -0700

I have a drilling jig that I use for this. It places the bottom hole for the cage at 16cm above the crotch of the ST/DT. I use it for both DT and ST boss locations. Unlike some, I drill and braze WB's on after the frame is built.

Omar Khiel

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0442.eml

From: "e-RICHIE"

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:44:17 GMT

Subject: Re: Frame H20 boss placement question

i like my two opposing sets of bosses to be "symmetric". when the seat tube cage is lower than the down tube cage, it bothers my eyes. my lower cage boss is usually 19cm from the bb centerline.

e-RICHIE©™®

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0444.eml

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:39:32 -0400

Subject: Re: Frame H20 boss placement question

From: Doug Fattic

My sense of proportion is the same as Richie's. I like the seat tube bottle to be the same distance from the bottom bracket shell as the down tube bottle. Sometimes this has to be altered with small frames. How low they can be depends on several factors (bb angle, cage, etc) so when I am particularly fussy, I will put the actual cage with bottle in place and see where they comfortably just miss each other and mark the spots. Of course they shouldn't be so close that a change in cage will make the bottles bump each other. I measure from the top of the bottom bracket shell and this distance is usually between 6 3/4" and 7/8ths.

Doug Fattic

Niles, Michigan

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0470.eml

Subject: Re: Frame H20 boss placement question

From: "Jon_norstog AKA \"Thursday\""

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 23:02:47 -0600

I've got a Waterford Paramount in for some frame repairs that has the lower boss 7.5 inches above the crotch. On mountain bikes with short seat tubes, I move the bosses down, 5.25" or so above the crotch, which gives you a little more than just enough clearance for the dérailleur clamp.

jn

"Thursday"

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0454.eml

From: Margo Conover

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:41:03 -0600

Subject: Frame H2O boss placement

I think this "all depends." On tiny frames I have to go really low--like 11cm--in order for the rider to get a big bottle (sometimes even a small one) in there, particularly if they use a top tube mounted frame pump. Also, if the frame uses a clamp-on front dérailleur, then you need to be very aware of where that clamp will sit on the seat tube when placing the lower boss.

Margo Conover

Luna Cycles, LLC

(505)231-0212

www.lunacycles.com

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10510.0441.eml

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 16:48:59 +0200

From: M-gineering

Subject: Re: Frame H20 boss placement question

Tom Palermo wrote:

Seems like most production bikes are hovering around 15cm.

depends on the size of the frame the angles and the cages. I like to space them fairly symmetrical and often use 200mm (down-tube) & 180 mm seat-tube. (c-c). But with small frames and big bottles this won't work.

Marten

Over/Under Bottom Bracket Shifter Cable Guides

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10212.0260.eml

From: "Bill Boston"

Subject: Re: Frame over BB cable guides

Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 15:55:02 -0500

I always liked to run the cables over the bottom bracket, but never liked the Campy guides. I preferred to place 2 cable stops on the down-tube, one on the chain stay and one on the back of the seat tube. this provided good shifting and it was far easier to paint the frame and was also easier to clean the frame because toy could move the cable housings. If you go this route, NEVER use plastic covered or lined cable housing as it will trap water and dirt and eventually seize up. Bare Stainless cable housing is the only way to go. Another advantage was that you could bypass the cable stop on the back of the seat tube and run directly to the cable stop on the front changer if necessary. This was particularly useful with some of the older changers that needed a cable housing to function. Fortunately those are no longer being made.

I probably have a stack of the Campy braze on guides kicking around here someplace if anyone needs them.

Bill

www.billbostoncycles.com

----- Original Message -----

From: "tim paterek"

To: "cliff mcleroy"

Cc:

Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 3:13 PM

Subject: Re: Frame over BB cable guides

My feeling on under or over is 50-50. They both have their advantages and both have their disadvantages. By all means, the simplest to install is the underneath plastic fitting that Shimano makes -- it only requires one tapped 5 X .8 hole in the bottom of the BB. The easiest to build with is the integrated underneath guides like the ones Henry James provides. One hint for topside guides: I have always tacked the tail end of the left guide to the BB shell/seat tube with silver after bending it in towards the seat tube. This prevents the guide from bending upward due to hard shifting.

Tim Paterek

Front Pannier/Low-Rider Bosses

Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10605.0369.eml

Subject: RE: Frame low-rider and rear rack mount locations

Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 13:17:22 -0500

From: "Dave Gray"

We use 165mm...center of eyelet to center of low-rider rack boss.

Dave Gray

Surly

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Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=framebuilders.10605.0370.eml

From: "Omar Khiel"

Subject: Re: Frame low-rider and rear rack mount locations

Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 11:24:27 -0700

I use 165 also. It works for the rigid mounted Blackburn racks. I measure c to c eyelet to boss.

Omar Khiel